National Geographic's November, 2012 Issue contains an interesting article on Cuba. The author interviews a number of people on both sides of government support, including dissidents who recently attempted to escape by boat.
Although it talks about change, it does not address the most recent changes, because it was written before the Pope visited, over a year ago.
The entire article appears there, but I do not know how long it will remain. I am not printing the text, so I am not accused of copyright violation.